Barbara Öhlzelt Gemischter Satz Gut Gegen Nordwind 2023, QUW Niederosterreich, Austria (13%)
Regular price £23.50
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The opening ‘baby plumpness’ gives way to a lovely gentle spiciness in the middle whilst a delicious, almost urgent acidity combines with an appetising touch of bitterness at the finish. Thinking about quite decent class white Burgundy seems helpful on the one hand and distracting on the other, the general ‘shape’ is close, but this is very much capable of standing on its own two feet and being judged for what it is without comparison. Its heart is dense and properly sleek with that exciting blend of fruitiness and stoniness that characterises so many genuinely ‘serious’ wines. Attractively undemanding yet at the same time properly smart. Lovely. A great starting point for your Barbara Őhlzelt journey. Fresh, crushed peas with a suggestion of mint and some ricotta served on toast. Can’t see a nice herb stuffed wild Sea Bass being much of a problem here either!